followed by a mob of ragamuffins who had seen the show a
dozen times or more without apparent diminution of enjoyment, the
stage manager arranged the scenery and green-room, which consisted
of a folding screen. The orchestra, with bamboo flutes, guitars,
and mandolins, took places on a bench, where they began the overture,
beating the measure with bare feet and with as much delight as though
they were about to witness the performance for the first time. The
proprietor informed us that the entertainment was to be a comedy of
old Toledo. It was somewhat of a Cyrano de Bergerac affair; one of
the principals, concealed behind the "leading man," using his own
arms for gestures, sang his representative love for the senorita
in the Spanish dancer's costume. The castanet dance was repeatedly
encored, especially by those familiar with the program, who desired
that we appreciate it to its full extent. The actors in this dance
were dressed as Spanish buccaneers are popularly supposed to dress,
in purple breeches buttoned at the knee, red sashes, and gold lace....

Last night at our own church three paper lanterns, shaped like stars
and representing the "three wise men," at the climax of the mass were
worked on wires so that they floated overhead along the auditorium,
and finally came to rest above the altar, which had been transformed
into a manger, the more realistic on account of the pigs, ducks,
and chickens manufactured out of paper that had been disposed around.

To-day three men in red are traveling from house to house with candles
followed by an attendant with a bell, ringing away the evil spirits
for a year. The councilmen in snowy blouses and blue pantaloons, with
their official canes, are making their official calls, and Padre Pedro
in his pony cart has been around to visit his parishioners. The band,
equipped with brand new uniforms and instruments, is playing underneath
the convent balcony. Their duties during the festivities are strenuous;
for they must serenade the residence of every magnate in the town,
receiving contributions of _pesetas_, cigarettes, and gin.

This afternoon we made our round of calls, for every family keeps
open house. A number of matinee balls were in session, where the
natives danced "clack-clack" around the floor to the monotonous drone
of home-made instruments. Our friends all wished us a "_Ma-ayon
Pascua_" or "_Feliz Pascua_," for which "Merry Christmas" they
expected some remembrance of