icularly
pleased with the old town-gate Lateran, by which we entered.

It was already quite dark when we reached the Dogana. I at once
betook myself to my room and retired to rest.

I remained a fortnight at Rome, and walked about the streets from
morning till night. I visited St. Peter's almost every day, and
went to the Vatican several times.

All the squares in Rome (and there are a great many) are decorated
with fountains, and still more frequently with obelisks. The finest
is the Piazza del Popolo. To the right rises the terrace-hill
Picino, rich in pillars, statues, fountains, and other ornaments,--a
favourite walk of the citizens. On this hill, which is arranged
after the manner of a beautiful garden, we have a splendid view.
The city of Rome here appears to much greater advantage than when we
approach it from the direction of Naples. We can see the whole town
at one glance, with the yellow Tiber flowing through the midst, and
a vast plain all around. The background is closed by beautiful
mountain-ranges, with villas, little towns, and cottages on the
declivities. But I missed one feature, to which I had become so
accustomed that the most beautiful view appeared incomplete without
it--the sea. To make up for this drawback, we here encounter
wherever we walk such a number of ruins, that we soon become
forgetful of all around us, and live only in the past.

The Piazza del Popolo forms the termination of the three principal
streets in Rome; on the largest and finest of these, the Corso, many
palaces are to be seen.

The splendid post-office, of white marble, rises on the Colonna
square. Two clocks are erected on this building; one with our dial,
one with the Italian. At night both are illuminated,--a very useful
as well as an ornamental arrangement. The ancient column of
Antoninus also stands in this square.

The facade of the Dogana boasts some pillars from the temple of
Antonius Pius.

The objects I have just enumerated struck me particularly as I
wended my way to St. Peter's. I cannot describe how deeply I was
impressed by the sight of this colossal structure. I need only
state the fact, that on the first day I entered the cathedral at
nine in the morning, and did not emerge from its gates until three
in the afternoon.

I sat down before the pictures in mosaic, underneath the huge dome
and the canopy; then I stood before the statues and monuments, and
could only gaze in wonder at every t