bridge of St. Angelo, constructed entirely of square
blocks of stone, leads across the Tiber to the castle of the same
name, the tomb of Hadrian. The emperor caused this large round
building to be erected for his future mausoleum. It is built of
immense stone blocks, and now serves as a fortress and state-prison.

The temple of Marcus Aurelius is converted into the Dogana. That of
Minerva Medica lies in the midst of a vineyard, and is built in the
form of a rotunda. The upper part has sunk in.

There are twelve obelisks in the different public squares of Rome,
all brought from Egypt.

I have still to mention the 108 fountains, from which fresh water
continually spouts into the air. Foremost among them in size and
beauty is the Fontana Trevi.

I was prevented by the bad weather from making trips to any
distance, but one afternoon I drove to Tivoli. The road leading
thither is called the Tiburtinian. After travelling for about six
miles we become conscious of a dreadfully offensive sulphurous
smell, and soon find that it proceeds from a little river running
through the Solfatara. A ride of eighteen Italian miles brought us
to the town of Tivoli, lying amidst olive-woods on the declivity of
the Apennines, and numbering about 7000 inhabitants. Towards
evening I took a short walk in the town, beneath the protection of
an umbrella, and was not much pleased. Next morning I left the
house early, and proceeded first to the temple of Sybilla, built on
a rock opposite to the waterfall. Afterwards I went to view the
grotto of Neptune, and that through which the Arno flows, rushing
out of the cavern to fall headlong over a ledge of lofty rocks, and
form the cascade of Tivoli. The best view of this fall is obtained
from the bridge. Besides many pretty minor cascades, I saw a number
of ruins; the most remarkable among these was the villa of Mecaenas.

November 23d.

At six o'clock this morning I commenced my journey to Florence with
a Veturino. Almost the whole distance the weather was in the
highest degree unfavourable--it was foggy, rainy, and very cold. A
journey through Italy during autumn or winter is far from agreeable;
for there are generally cold and rain to be encountered, and no warm
rooms to be found in the inns, where fires are never kindled until
after the guests have arrived. And the fires they light in the
grates are, after all, quite inadequate to warm the damp, unaired
rooms, and the traveller