das,
they would certainly not be far behind the ancient Spartans.

A Latin inscription on a massive stone slab, and higher up four
niches, two of which contain statues, while the others display
similar inscriptions, seemed to indicate that the Romans had already
known and appreciated the importance of this pass. Unfortunately
both statues and writing were so much injured by the all-destroying
hand of time, that only a man learned in these matters could have
deciphered their meaning. In our party there was no one equal to
such a task.

We rode on for another half-hour, after which the path led downwards
into the territory of Beyrout; and we rode quietly and comfortably
by the sea-side towards this city. Mulberry trees and vineyards
bloomed around us, country-houses and villages lay half hidden
between, and convents crowned the lower peaks of the Lebanon, which
on this side displays only naked rocks, the majority of a bluish-
grey colour.

At a little distance from Beyrout we came upon a second giant
bridge, similar to that over the Dog's-river. Broad staircases, on
which four or five horsemen could conveniently ride abreast, led
upwards and downwards. The steps are so steep, and lie so far
apart, that it seems almost incredible that the poor horses should
be able to ascend and descend upon them. We looked down from a
dizzy height, not upon a river, but upon a dry river-bed.

At five o'clock in the evening we arrived safely at Beyrout; and
thus ended our excursion to the "lovely and incomparable city of the
East," to the world-renowned ruin, and to the venerable Grove of
Cedars. Our tour had occupied ten days; the distance was about 180
miles; namely, from Beyrout to Damascus about 60, from Damascus to
Balbeck 40, and from Balbeck across the Lebanon to Beyrout about 80
miles.

Of four-footed beasts, amphibious creatures, birds, or insects, we
had seen nothing. Count Berchtold caught a chameleon, which
unfortunately effected its escape from its prison a few days
afterwards. At night we frequently heard the howling of jackals,
but never experienced any annoyance from them. We had not to
complain of the attacks of insects; but suffered much from the
dreadful heat, besides being frequently obliged to endure hunger and
thirst: the thermometer one day rose to 40 degrees.

In Beyrout I once more put up at the house of the kind French lady.
The first piece of news I heard was that I had arrived twenty-four
ho