buildings, and I ask him what they are. "Them
are for the soldiers' wives hin the garrison," he replies promptly. I
say nothing, but I do not believe they are for the soldiers' wives. A
soldier's wife could not get through them. "How many soldiers in a
regiment are allowed to have wives?" asks Halicarnassus. "Heighty,
sir," is the ready response. I am a little horror-struck, when we
leave, to see Halicarnassus hold out his hand as if about to give money
to this brave and British soldier, and scarcely less so to see our
soldier receive it quietly. But I need not be, for my observation
should have taught me that small change--fees I believe it is
called--circulates universally in Canada. Out doors and in, it is all
one. Everybody takes a fee, and is not ashamed. You fee at the falls,
and you fee at the steps. You fee the church, and here we have feed
the army; and if we should call on the Governor-General, I suppose one
would drop a coin into his outstretched palm, and he would raise his
hat and say, "Thank you, sir." I do not know whether there is any
connection between this fact and another which I noticed; but if the
observation be superficial, and the connection imaginary, I shall be no
worse off than other voyageurs, so I will hazard the remark, that I saw
very few intellectual or elegant looking men and women in Quebec, or,
for that matter, in Canada. Everybody looked peasant-y or shoppy,
except the soldiers, and they were noticeably healthy, hale, robust,
well kept; yet I could not help thinking that it is a poor use to put
men to. These soldiers seem simply well-conditioned animals, fat and
full-fed; but not nervous, intellectual, sensitive, spiritual.
However, if the people of Canada are not intellectual, they are pious.
"Great on saints here," says Halicarnassus. "They call their streets
St. Genevieve, St. Jean, and so on; and when they have run through the
list, and are hard up, they club them and have a Street of All Saints."

Canada seemed to be a kind of Valley of Jehoshaphat for Secessionists.
We scented the aroma somewhat at Saratoga; nothing to speak of, nothing
to lay hold of; but you were conscious of a chill on your warm loyalty.
There were petty smirks and sneers and quips that you could feel, and
not see or hear. You SENSED, to use a rustic expression, the presence
of a class that was not palpably treasonable, but rather half cotton.
But at Canada it comes out all wool. The hot South ope