heap of stones near indicates the
spot where Abou Zeit is said to have slain a Berdovil. On the left is a
ruined castle, built of shelly marlstone, which, according to Arabian
tradition, once belonged to the Berdovil in question. Thus does the
imagination of these children of the desert clothe even these desolate
places of the earth with interest, and connect ruins of diverse origin
with the heroes of their traditions. A step or two further are similar
ruins, known as Berj el Hashish--"the grass tracts," alleged by the
Arabs to be the remains of an old town. The great Melleha of Berdovil
extends along the foot of these ruins, and attains a considerable width
in the centre. We there saw a complete camel-skeleton, apparently of
somewhat recent date, which our horses scented from a distance, and took
care to keep a good way off in passing.

On both sides of the road, which here runs along a small ridge (see
illustration), we saw several herds of cattle and troops of Bedouins.
Among them were two children trying in vain to recapture a stray camel.
It was very amusing to watch them as they alternately employed stratagem
and agility in order to effect their object.

[Illustration: JEBEL EL HALAL (TAKEN FROM ARD EL MURRAH).]

Going on we passed Nahle Abou Sheh--"the palms of Abou Sheh," and, in a
declivity, several small palm groups. These, together with the
asphodels, which literally whiten the ground, indicate the neighbourhood
of the sea. The large picturesque group, Etmil et te Jaber, is named
after a young man, belonging to a distinguished family, by whom they
were planted. The valley, our course through which I have described, is
of great length, and opens out widely on each side. It contains several
groves of palms in most picturesque groups, three of the principal of
which are situated in a small valley to the left.

Beyond, the road leads, between roundish ridges of moving sand, through
the most complete desert, utterly desolate and bare, with scarcely a
bush to be seen. These ridges form a continuous line, with dales and
hollows between them. There is nothing to disturb the sublime stillness
of the scene. Not a creature is visible, and not a sound heard excepting
that of the distant breakers.

Still keeping to the telegraph posts, we soon came within sight of the
castle of El Harish, the last outpost eastward of the Egyptian
Government. As we advanced over ridges and then over heaps of ruins, the
view of the cas