some of the houses, and found them to
correspond with what I have before described as constituting the
character of house-architecture in the thirteenth and fourteenth
centuries. They had one large room, and all the others small; a great
waste of timber and work in their construction; the walls being built as
thick as if intended for fortifications, and the beams being large
timber trees. Our ancestors thought they could never build too
substantially.
The palace, the former residence of the Papal Legates, is well worthy of
being visited: it was founded by Benedict the Twelfth but is better
known as the subject of the elegant invective of Petrarch. The arsenal
still remains, containing 4000 stand of arms and as these instruments of
war are ranged according to their respective aeras, the spectacle is
interesting, and to antiquaries may be instructive. The papal chair,
from respect to its antiquity, still remains, but the pannels of the
state rooms, which were composed of polished cedar, have disappeared.
The most curious parts of the palace, however, are the subterraneous
passages, the entrance to which is usually through some part of the
pillars; perfectly imperceptible till pointed out by the guide.
According to the tradition of the town, these passages have been the
scene of many a deed of darkness. A statue of Hercules was found on the
scite of the palace, and buried by Pope Urban, that the figure of a
Heathen Deity might not disgrace a papal town.
The cathedral still retains many of its ancient decorations, and amongst
these, the monument of Pope John, who died in the year 1384. In the year
1759, the body was taken up to be removed, when it was found entire, and
with some of the vestments retaining their original colour. The first
wrapper round the body was a robe of purple silk, which was then
enveloped in black velvet embroidered in gold and pearls; the hands had
white satin gloves, and were crossed over the breast. The above
description is exhibited in writing to all travellers. The monument of
Benedict the Twelfth is likewise here. This Pope was as remarkable for
his integrity of life and simplicity of manners, as for his humility.
There are many illustrious men who lie buried beneath the cathedral, but
as I could give little account of them but their names, I shall pass
them over.
We next visited the convent of St. Claire, where Petrarch first beheld
his mistress. From respect to the poet, or to his mistr
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