e of dress-making by the use of charts and patterns. This is
not the fact. Undoubtedly charts and patterns are very useful for
women who cut and make their own dresses, and they are aids in cutting
and fitting generally; but so many changes have to be made, depending
on the size and style of the woman to be fitted, and so much judgment
is required to be used, that competent critics say that they are of no
value to the professional dress-maker. One lady remarked that if all
women were perfectly formed, charts and patterns would be a great
help; but as the modern Eves come very far short of physical
perfection, not much help could be got from them.

Some authorities say that dress-making as a trade is not so good a
business in New York as it was some ten years ago. The large
dress-makers who employ considerable help are obliged to select the
best locations in the city for their establishments, where the rent is
very high, and to furnish their places in a style very much more
expensive than in former years. As a consequence they do not pay as
good wages as they once did, on account of having to lay out money in
these ways.

Another change from the old methods is that the work of dress-making
is, at the present time, divided into various departments. One woman
will make the skirt, another will finish it, another will work on the
sleeves, another will work the button-holes, and the fitting and
draping are branches by themselves. The woman who would receive the
highest wages to be obtained in this industry should master the whole
business, and make herself competent to do all, or nearly all, the
kinds of work which have just been mentioned. If she does do that, she
need have no fear about obtaining employment. There are thousands of
dress-makers in the country, but very few good ones. It is a trade of
which it may be emphatically said that there is "room at the top."

The dress-making season lasts from October 1st to February 1st; then
there is very little to do until March 10th, when business becomes
brisk and remains so until about the 1st of August. The hours of work
are from 8 A.M. until 6 P.M. In the busy season it is often necessary
to work in the evening. The pay ranges from $6 to $8 per week for
ordinary hands, while competent women receive $10, $12, and $14 a
week. The forelady in a dress-making establishment will receive $15 or
$20 a week. It is her duty to superintend the girls, to see that they
arrive on time,