en pheasant
tippets, silver pheasant body feathers, as on the Grey Ghost streamer
fly, blue chatterer, and many other fancy feathers according to pattern
and fancy are used for this purpose. A pair of jungle cock tippets often
called eyes, added to a Bucktail Streamer will often take trout, when
the same pattern without the jungle cock will not.
RIBBING: Tinsel, Wool, Silk, Horse Hair, Quill, etc., are used for
ribbing. The tinsel from your Xmas tree will do, but it is much better
to use tinsel made for the purpose, as it will not tarnish so
quickly and is much stronger. It is advisable before using tinsel to
place a drop of good, clear head lacquer between the thumb and finger
and draw the tinsel through it. This makes it tarnish-proof, and is
particularly advisable with the oval and round tinsel that is wound
over a silk core. Besides tarnish-proofing it, it will keep the tinsel
from coming apart. Tinsel bodies should be lacquered after they are
finished.
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[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.]
WINGS: Several styles of wings are used, see Diagram 2, page xi, those
on Fig. 1, and are cut from a pair of matched wing quill feathers, like
Fig. 7. Those in Fig. 2 are buzz wings taken from a pair of breast
feathers {12} (mallard, wood duck, etc.) shown in Fig. 8. Fig. 3 shows
hackle tip wings, tips of two hackle feathers, see Fig. 9. Fan wings,
Fig. 4, are a matched pair of small breast feathers, see Fig. 10 (white
duck, mallard, teal, grouse, etc.). In fact there is hardly a bird that
flies that does not supply some of its plumage to the Fly-Tier. Flies
of the order Diptera (land flies), such as the Bee, Cowdung, Blue Bottle,
etc., should be tied with flat wings as in Fig. 5. A Bi-visible is shown
in Fig. 6. This is a fly without wings, hackle tied palmer (that is hackle
wound the full length of the hook, usually tied without a body, and the
dark patterns have a turn or two of white hackle in front).
All of the flies on Diagram 2 are shown as dry flies; however, the same
feathers are used for wet flies, streamers, etc., the difference being
the style in which they are tied, which is explained elsewhere.
WAX: Use a good grade of wax for fly-tying. The proper wax will work
much better than shoemaker's wax or beeswax. Wax for fly-tying should be
quite sticky so that when the waxed tying silk is let go of, it will not
unwind while tying the fly.
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[Illustration: Page sized photograph
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