37} three horse hairs across, just
in back of where the head is to be made, crisscross (A) between the hairs
to spread them and make them look like legs, and your nymph should look
like Fig. 7. Nymphs of this style as well as Figs. 8, 9, 10, 14 and 15
look more natural if the bodies are flattened. Fig. 8 is tied nearly the
same as Fig. 7, the difference being that (C) and (D) are both wound
over (B) about two-thirds of the length of the body, then (B) is turned
back, the body finished as before, (B) brought forward loosely to form
the humpbacked wing case, and (B) being cut off as was done with Fig. 6,
and instead of the butt end of (B) being cut off as was done with Fig.
6 it is split by crisscrossing (A) through it to form small wings as
Fig. 8. Fig. 9 is made in the same way except that several strands of
peacock herl is used for the dark back, tail, and feelers.

Fig. 10 is a very effective nymph, the body made entirely of natural
raffia (soaked in water before using), with black hair used for the tail
and feelers The body coated with lacquer as before mentioned and pressed
flat when dry; paint the back with dark brown or black lacquer.

Fig. 11 is made by close wound palmer hackle cut off on dotted
lines. Fig. 12 is a fur body, made by spinning rabbit's fur or
other fur on waxed tying silk and ribbing with gold; the tougher
this nymph looks the more effective it seems to be. Fig. 13, the
Caddis {38} worm can be more naturally reproduced with a common rubber
band than any other way I know. Get a dirty, white, rubber band
about 1/8" wide, taper one end for about 1/2". Lay two horse hairs
lengthwise on top of the hook for the feelers, wind tying silk over them
down the hook, tie in the rubber band by the very tip of the taper, wind
the tying silk back to the starting point, and be sure that the tying
silk is wound smoothly. If not, any roughness will show through the
rubber band. Wind the rubber band tightly to about 1/4" back of the eye.
Wind back down and take one turn under the horsehair at the tail end,
wind up to the head and tie off with the tying silk. This now makes
three thicknesses of the rubber band. Form a large head with the tying
silk, fasten securely and you have a very realistic Caddis worm. Fig. 14
is tied about the same as Fig. 7, with a considerable amount of speckled
mallard, and peacock herl used for both the front and back feelers as
well as the legs.

Fig. 15. The Damsel Nymph has a body o