torrents of the upper mountains to the lake of
Scutari; and, in another hour, reached the village of that name, which
is known also by the Italian one of Fiumara. We trusted here to
procuring a boat which would convey us the remainder of the journey;
but the natives of this free country are seldom in a hurry, and in
fact it was necessary that we should be made popular idols for a
certain space; nor had we the means of keeping each other in
countenance. I was hurried off, accompanied by Petrarca, to the house
of the captain of the district, a senator, I understood, and eminently
brave; while my unfortunate companion, without any one to help, was
taken possession of by a lady of rank, a Cattarese by birth, but who
had nearly forgotten her native tongue, and in a short time was
surrounded by all the females and olive branches of the place. The
usual brandy, with coffee and pipes, was served to our party. The
houses, or little dirty huts rather, have in front a small balcony
covered at top, and raised about four or five feet from the ground;
here Spiro, Petrarca, and myself were seated, with my host and several
others. While the lady of the house brought in the pipes and
refreshments, I made some very sensible observations, which Petrarca
clothed in Servian, and the replies seemed in every way equal;
notwithstanding, in about an hour the liveliness of the scene began
somewhat to wear off, and I took the first opportunity of hastening to
rescue the other sufferer. Here I discovered the object of public
attention seated on a bench with her host and hostess, one on each
knee as it were, and the room thronged with spectators; women and
children were squatted or perched on every conceivable spot. The
harmony of the party had, however, undergone for a moment a trifling
disorder; for, while all the rest had been full of compliment and
courtesy, one elderly lady had thought proper to express herself in a
manner contradictory to the general feeling, and in the strongest
terms, going even the length of shaking her fist at the occupant of
the post of honour. She was, however, bundled out most unceremoniously,
neck and crop, as the phrase is. After further delays, and declining a
most uninviting dormitory, a boat was got ready; four warriors were in
her, and we departed amid the cheers of the population and a
promiscuous discharge of fire-arms. This was warmly responded to by
our party; nor did I much regret when these demonstrations h