boiled, being better calculated for frying or broiling, as a relish at
breakfast. A.

[180-*] SALMON. The earliest that comes in season to the London market
is brought from the Severn, and begins to come into season the beginning
of November, but very few so early, perhaps not above one in fifty, as
many of them will not shoot their spawn till January, or after, and then
continue in season till October, when they begin to get very thin and
poor. The principal supply of salmon is from different parts of
Scotland, packed in ice, and brought by water: if the vessels have a
fair wind, they will be in London in three days; but it frequently
happens that they are at sea perhaps a fortnight, when the greater part
of the fish is perished, and has, for a year or two past, sold as low as
twopence per pound, and up to as much as eighteen pence per pound at the
same time, owing to its different degrees of goodness. This accounts for
the very low prices at which the itinerant fishmongers cry their
"_delicate_ salmon," "_dainty fresh_ salmon," and "_live_ cod," "_new_
mackerel," &c. &c.

"Salmon gwilts, or salmon peel, are the small salmon which run from
about five or six pounds to ten pounds, are very good fish, and make
handsome dishes of fish, sent to table crooked in the form of an S.

"Berwick trout are a distinct fish from the gwilts, and are caught in
the river Tweed, and dressed in the same manner as the gwilt.

"Calvered salmon is the salmon caught in the Thames, and cut into slices
alive; and some few salmon are brought from Oxford to London alive, and
cut. A few slices make a handsome, genteel dish, but it is generally
very expensive; sometimes 15_s._ per pound."

[Fresh salmon comes to the New-York market from the eastern states, and
mostly from Maine. It is also occasionally brought from the lakes and
rivers of the northern part of New-York in winter. A.]

[181-*] Small fish and fillets of whiting, turbots, brills, &c. and
slices of cod, or the head or tail of it, are excellent dressed the same
way.

[181-+] The yellow eels taste muddy; the whiteness of the belly of the
fish is not the only mark to know the best; the right colour of the back
is a very bright coppery hue: the olive-coloured are inferior; and those
tending to a green are worse.

[183-*] There are several species of mackerel in their season in the
New-York market. That which arrives in the spring is most esteemed, and
in greatest plenty. Spring m