only be extracted by very long
and slow simmering; during which take care to prevent evaporation, by
covering the pot as close as possible: the best stew-pot is a digester.

Clear soups must be perfectly transparent; thickened soups, about the
consistence of rich cream; and remember that thickened soups require
nearly double the quantity of seasoning. The _piquance_ of spice, &c. is
as much blunted by the flour and butter, as the spirit of rum is by the
addition of sugar and acid: so they are less salubrious, without being
more savoury, from the additional quantity of spice, &c. that is
smuggled into the stomach.

To thicken and give body to soups and sauces, the following materials
are used: they must be gradually mixed with the soup till thoroughly
incorporated with it; and it should have at least half an hour's gentle
simmering after: if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a tamis or a
fine sieve. Bread raspings, bread, isinglass, potato mucilage (No. 448),
flour, or fat skimmings and flour (see No. 248), or flour and butter,
barley (see No. 204), rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well together,
(see No. 257, in which this subject is fully explained.)

To give that _glutinous_ quality so much admired in _mock turtle_, see
No. 198, and note under No. 247, No. 252, and N.B. to No. 481.

To their very rich gravies, &c. the French add the white meat of
partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp, and rubbed through a
sieve. A piece of beef, which has been boiled to make broth, pounded in
the like manner with a bit of butter and flour, see _obs._ to No. 485*
and No. 503, and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will be
found a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive articles.

Meat from which broth has been made (No. 185, and No. 252), and all its
juice has been extracted, is then excellently well prepared for POTTING,
(see No. 503), and is quite as good, or better, than that which has been
baked till it is dry;[98-*] indeed, if it be pounded, and seasoned in
the usual manner, it will be an elegant and savoury luncheon, or supper,
and costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very little,
and a relish is procured for sandwiches, &c. (No. 504) of what
heretofore has been by the poorest housekeeper considered _the
perquisite of the_ CAT.

Keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling, and get
too thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, various sauces, &c.; for
ma