t magnificent new stone bridge, the work of Napoleon; the work had
the appearance of having been some time interrupted. Alas, that the good
King cannot continue such works!
Here, for the first time, we saw coals, and in great quantity; the boats
on which they are carried, are long, square flat-bottomed boxes.
Although in a mountainous country, and with a poor soil, the houses of
the peasants were here much better than any we have seen, though a good
deal out of repair; they are high and comfortable, having many of them
two flats, and all with windows. We saw a number of fields in which the
people were turning up and dressing the soil with spades: This, and
indeed many other things in this mountainous part of the country,
reminded me of parts of the Highlands of Scotland, and the island of St
Helena. But it would not be easy to conceive yourself transported to
those parts of the world, when here you every now and then encounter a
peasant in a cocked hat, with a red velvet coat, or with blue velvet
breeches: this proclaims us near Lyons, the country of silks and
velvets. The climate is very delightful at present; during a great part
of to-day, I sat on the box with _Monsieur le Voiturier_, who is now
become so attached to us, that I think he will go with us to our
journey's end. He is a most excellent, sober and discreet man, and has
given us no trouble, and ample satisfaction. To-day, we passed two very
pretty clear streams. The country seats are numerous here, but none of
those that we have yet seen are fine; they are either like the very old
English manor-houses, or if of a later date, are like large
manufactories; a mass of regular windows, and all in ruinous condition;
nothing like fine architecture have we yet met with. To-morrow we start
again at six, and hope to sleep within four leagues of Lyons.----
Distance 34 miles--to St Simphorien de Lay.
* * *
This morning, we set off, as usual, at six, and only made out in five
hours a distance of 16 miles, arriving at the small town of Tarrare,
which is beautifully situated in the bosom of the hills. This difficulty
in travelling is occasioned by the road being extremely precipitous. It
winds, however, for several miles very beautifully through the valley,
by the banks of a clear stream; and the hills which rise on each side,
are in many places cultivated to the top, while others are richly
wooded: towards the bases they slope into meadows, which are now as
green as
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