re--such a pleasing, clever young man, speaking Italian
perfectly, and French extremely well. He is the son of some fellah of
Lower Egypt, sent to study at Pisa, and has not lost the Arab gentility
and elegance by a _Frenghi_ education. We fraternized greatly, and the
young _hakeem_ was delighted at my love for his people, and my high
opinion of their intelligence. He is now gone to inspect the sick, and
is to see me again and give me directions. He was very unhappy that he
could not supply me with medicines; none are to be bought above Cairo,
except from the hospital doctors, who sell the medicines of the
Government, as the Italian at Siout did. But Ali Effendi is too honest
for that. The old bishop paid me a visit of three and a half hours
yesterday, and _pour me tirer une carotte_ he sent me a loaf of sugar, so
I must send a present 'for the church' to be consumed in raki. The old
party was not very sober, and asked for wine. I coolly told him it was
_haraam_ (forbidden) to us to drink during the day--only with our dinner.
I never will give the Christians drink here, and now they have left off
pressing me to drink spirits at their houses. The bishop offered to
alter the hour of prayer for me, and to let me into the _Heykel_ (where
women must not go) on Good Friday, which will be eighteen days hence.
All of which I refused, and said I would go on the roof of the church and
look down through the window with the other _Hareemat_. Omar kissed the
bishop's hand, and I said: 'What! do _you_ kiss his hand like a Copt?'
'Oh yes, he is an old man, and a servant of my God, but dreadful dirty,'
added Omar; and it was too true. His presence diffused a fearful
monastic odour of sanctity. A Bishop must be a monk, as priests are
married.

_Monday_.--To-day Ali Effendi-_el-Hakeem_ came to tell me how he had been
to try to see my patients and failed; all the families declared they were
well and would not let him in. Such is the deep distrust of everything
to do with the Government. They all waited till he was gone away, and
then came again to me with their ailments. I scolded, and they all said,
'_Wallah, ya Sitt, ya Emeereh_; that is the _Hakeem_ Pasha, and he would
send us off to hospital at Keneh, and then they would poison us; by thy
eyes do not be angry with us, or leave off from having compassion on us
on this account.' I said, 'Ali Effendi is an Arab and a Muslim and an
_Emeer_ (gentleman), and he gave me good a