all--above
all on his birthday festival and on the night of Friday.

_Friday_, _January_ 29.--I have been too unwell to write all this week,
but will finish this to-day to send off by Lady Herbert's boat. The last
week has been very cold here, the thermometer at 59 and 60 degrees, with
a nipping wind and bright sun. I was obliged to keep my bed for three or
four days, as of course a _palazzo_ without doors or windows to speak of
was very trying, though far better than a boat. Yesterday and to-day are
much better, not really much warmer, but a different air.

The _moolid_ (festival) of the Sheykh terminated last Saturday with a
procession, in which the new cover of his tomb, and the ancient sacred
boat, were carried on men's shoulders. It all seemed to have walked out
of the royal tombs, only dusty and shabby instead of gorgeous. These
festivals of the dead are such as Herodotus alludes to as held in honour
of 'Him whose name he dares not mention--Him who sleeps in Philae,' only
the name is changed and the mummy is absent.

For a fortnight everyone who had a horse and could ride came and 'made
fantasia' every afternoon for two hours before sunset; and very pretty it
was. The people here show their good blood in their riding. On the last
three days all strangers were entertained with bread and cooked meat at
the expense of the Luxor people; every house killed a sheep and baked
bread. As I could not do that for want of servants enough, I sent 100
piastres (12s) to the servants of Abu-l-Hajjaj at the mosque to pay for
the oil burnt at the tomb, etc. I was not well and in bed, but I hear
that my gift gave immense satisfaction, and that I was again well prayed
for. The Coptic Bishop came to see me, but he is a tipsy old monk and an
impudent beggar. He sent for tea as he was ill, so I went to see him,
and perceived that his disorder was arrakee. He has a very nice black
slave, a Christian (Abyssinian, I think), who is a friend of Omar's, and
who sent Omar a handsome dinner all ready cooked; among other things a
chicken stuffed with green wheat was excellent. Omar constantly gets
dinners sent him, a lot of bread, some dates and cooked fowls or pigeons,
and _fateereh_ with honey, all tied up hot in a cloth. I gave an old
fellow a pill and dose some days ago, but his _dura ilia_ took no notice,
and he came for more, and got castor-oil. I have not seen him since, but
his employer, _fellah_ Omar, sent me a lot of de