n with elaborate sculptures in high relief surrounds the
choir, that on the south representing the legend of St. Firmin, the
patron of Picardy, and that on the north, scenes connected with the life
of John the Baptist. In a side chapel dedicated to St. John reposes the
alleged head of John the Baptist. Others have appeared elsewhere from
time to time, but as they are not now recognized as being genuine, and
the said apostle not being hydra-headed, it is possible that there will
be those who will choose to throw the weight of their opinions in favour
of the claim of Amiens.

The flying buttresses at Amiens are not of the singular lightness
associated with this notably French characteristic; they are in the
main, however, none the less effective for that, and assuredly, so far
as the work which they have to perform is concerned, it was doubtless
necessary that they should be of more than ordinary strength.

The view of the ensemble from the river shows the massiveness and
general proportions in a unique and superb manner. Amiens is not
otherwise an attractive city, a bustle of grand and cheap hotels,
decidedly a place to be taken _en route_, not like Beauvais, where one
may well remain as long as fancy wills and not feel the too strong hand
of progress intruding upon his ruminations.

III

ST. PIERRE DE BEAUVAIS

Beauvais is by no means an inaccessible place, though how often have we
known one who could not tell in what part of France it was situated. Of
course, being "off the line" is sufficient excuse for the majority of
hurried travellers to pass it by, but, leaving this debatable point out
of the question, let us admit, for the nonce, that it is admirably
located if one only chooses to spend a half-day or more in visiting the
charmingly interesting city and its cathedral, or what there is of it,
for it exists only as a luminous height _sans_ nave, _sans_ tower, and
_sans_ nearly everything, except a choir of such immensity that to see
it is to marvel if not to admire. It is indeed as Hope has said, "a
miracle of loftiness and lightness; appearing as if about to soar into
the air."

[Illustration: ST. PIERRE ... _de BEAUVAIS_]

How many readers, who recognize the charms for which the cathedral is
most revered, know that it was intended to rank as the
St. Peter's of the north, and like its Roman prototype, was to surpass
all other contemporary structures in size and magnificence. This was
marked out for