n the attractions of its domestic architectural forms is, no doubt,
fully merited; albeit that the cathedrals of these wealthy and powerful
communities are, no one can possibly deny, if not of a mongrel type, at
least of a degenerate one. It is perhaps hardly fair to note such an
expression without qualification where it is applied to St. Gatien at
Tours, which is really a delightfully picturesque structure; or to St.
Maurice, at Angers, which is unique as to its charm of situation, and
one of the most interesting churches anywhere to be found. But the fact
is that the general plan and design is not only open here to much just
criticism, but is not of the order of consistency which alone entitles
an architectural monument to rank as truly great. In no instance, from
Orleans to Nantes, are the cathedrals of these cities possessed of the
consistent array of charms which would entitle them to a proportionate
share of the admiration which is usually accorded to the great domestic
establishments, the Chateaux of Blois, Chenonceau, Chambord, Langeais,
or Loches.

The climatic conditions of this region hardly more than intimate the
suggestion of the southland, but there is to be seen in the vineyards,
and indeed in things that grow, generally, a notable tendency toward a
luxuriance that is not found northward of this valley. Productive,
prosperous, influential, and possessed of historical and sentimental
associations as a touring ground far beyond any other section of France,
the Valley of the Loire at once takes rank as the land _par excellence_
where the traveller can be sure of a maximum of pleasure and profit; and
one worthy in every way of as prolonged study and sojourn as one's
possibilities and circumstances will allow.

The towns group themselves naturally _en suite_ in the following order:
Orleans, Blois, Tours, Angers, and Nantes, and are so considered in the
pages that follow.

[Illustration: _CATHEDRAL of Ste CROIX ORLEANS_]

II

ST. CROIX D'ORLEANS

The association of Orleans, in English minds, mostly rests upon the
events connected with the siege. Its history in the past has been mainly
that of bloody warfare and massacre. As the Genabum of Gallia, it was
burned by Caesar in 52 B. C. in revenge for a previous massacre of the
Romans. By Aurelian it was rebuilt and named Aurelianum, the progenitor
of its present nomenclature. St. Aignan in 451 secured the safety of the
city to the cause of Christiani