night. It so happened,
however, that the Company's doctor had long been waiting a chance to
get married, but his contract never allowed him to leave the mine
without a medical man while it was working. I therefore found myself
welcomed with open arms, and incidentally practising in his place the
very next day--he having skipped in a boat after his bride. The
exchange had been ratified by the captain of the mine on the assurance
that I would not leave before he returned. It was absolutely essential
that I should not let the next north-bound steamer go by. The season
was already far advanced; and yet when the day on which she was due
arrived, there was no sign of the doctor and his wife. It was a kind
of Damon and Pythias experience--only Pythias got back late by a few
hours in spite of all his efforts, and Damon would have had to pay the
piper if the captain of the mine had not permitted me to proceed.

[Illustration: THE STRATHCONA]

The narrow road around the cavernous basin in the cliffs leaves only
just room for the line of houses between the lake in the middle and
the precipice behind. Only a few years later an avalanche overwhelmed
the house of Captain Williams, and he and his family perished in it.
During the days I was at the mine the news travelled by grapevine
telegraph that the Mission doctor from England had come to the
village, and every one took advantage of it. The plan there was to pay
so much per month, well or ill, for the doctor. The work was easy at
first, but by the time I left every living being seemed to me to have
contracted some disease. For each succeeding day my surgery got
fuller, until on the last morning even the yard and road contained
waiting patients. Whose fault it was has always been a problem to me;
but it added a fresh reason for wishing to leave punctually, so that
one might not risk outliving one's reputation.

In October, 1899, I wrote to my mother: "We have just steamed into
Battle Harbour and guns and flags gave us a welcome after our three
years' absence. The hospital was full and looked splendid. What a
change from the day, now seven years ago, that we first landed and had
only a partially finished house! What an oasis for patients from the
bleak rocks outside! I never thought to remain so long in this
country."

Here we boarded the little Mission steamer, but no human agency is
perfect, and even the Julia Sheriden had her faults. Her gait on this
fall voyage was sugges