a la Blanca.

A few hundred yards further on, following the same direction, is the
church called the Transito, also in the oriental style, but on a
different plan: a large quadrangular room, from about ninety to a
hundred feet in length, by forty in width, and about seventy high,
without arches or columns, ornamented with Arab tracery in stucco, on
the upper part of the walls, and by a handsome cedar roof. A cement of a
different colour from the rest runs round the lowest portion of the
walls, up to about breast high; no doubt filling the space formerly
occupied by the azulejos. Some remains of these still decorate the
seats, which are attached to the walls at the two sides of the altar.
The building is in excellent preservation, and until lately was used as
a church of the Mozarabic sect. The ornaments are remarkable for the
exquisite beauty of their design, and are uninjured, excepting by the
eternal whitewash, the monomania of modern Spanish decorators.

The Jews were the primitive occupants of this elegant temple also.
Samuel Levi, treasurer and favourite of Pedro the Cruel (who
subsequently transferred his affection from the person of his faithful
servant to the enormous wealth, amassed under so indulgent a prince, and
seized a pretext for ordering his execution) was the founder of this
synagogue. The inauguration was accompanied by extraordinary pomp. The
treasurer being, from his paramount position at the court of Castile,
the most influential personage of his tribe, the leading members of
Judaism flocked from all parts of Europe to Toledo to be present on the
occasion, and a deputation from Jerusalem brought earth of the Holy
Land, which was laid down throughout the whole interior before the
placing of the pavement.

A very different origin, more suited to believers in miracles, is
attributed to this church by the present titular sacristan. This
Quasimodo of the fabric, a simple and worthy functionary, enjoys a
sinecure, except, it is to be feared, with regard to salary. Although,
however, no duties confine him to his post, his attachment to the
edifice prevents his ever being found further from it than the porch;
under the cool shelter of which, as he leans against the wall, he
fabricates and consumes the friendly _cigarito_. When questioned with an
appearance of interest on the subject of the building, he replies with
unrestrained delight. Its foundation he attributes to Noah, fixing the
date at seventeen h