lded, is laid across the lap. It is not tucked
in at the neck or the vest front, or otherwise disposed as a
feeding-bib. It is a towel, for wiping the lips and fingers in
emergencies, but should be used unobtrusively--not flourished like a
flag of truce.

THE SERVING OF THE DINNER

The servant is ready to hand from the side-board any condiments desired
for the oysters, which are promptly disposed of. It may be remarked at
the outset, that everything at table is handed at the left, _except
wine_, which is offered at the right. Ladies are served first.

After the oyster-plates are removed, the soup is served from the side
table--a half ladleful to each plate being considered the correct
quantity. The rule regarding soup is double, you must, and you must
not. You must accept it (whether you eat it or merely pretend to), but
you must not ask for a second helping, since to do so would prolong a
course that is merely an "appetizer" preparatory to the substantials.

The soup-plates are removed, and the fish immediately appears, served
on plates with mashed potatoes or salad, or sometimes both, in which
case a separate dish is provided for the salad. The _entrees_ follow
the fish, hot plates being provided, as required. Dishes containing
the _entrees_ should have a large spoon and fork laid upon them, and
should be held low, so that the guest may help himself easily.

Again the dishes are removed. Here we may pause to remark that the
prompt and orderly removal of the dishes after each successive course
is a salient feature of skillful waiting. The accomplished waiter
never betrays haste or nervousness, but his every movement "tells," and
that, too, without clatter, or the dropping of small articles, or the
dripping of sauces. The plates, etc., vanish from the table--whither,
we observe not. The waiter in the dining-room must have the
co-operation of the servant behind the scenes, to receive and convey
the relays of dishes to the kitchen. However it is managed, and it
_must be managed_, the nearer the operation can appear to be a "magic
transformation," the better.

To return; the roast is the next course. The carving is done at the
side table. Guests are consulted as to their preference for "rare" or
"well-done;" and the meat, in thin slices, is served on hot plates,
with vegetables at discretion on the same plate, separate vegetable
dishes--except for salads--not being used on private dinner tables.
Cer