call themselves Americans,--miserable, thoughtless Esaus,
unworthy their high birthright ... absorbed at home by the lust of gain,
the love of show, abroad, they see only the equipages, the fine
clothes, the food. They have no heart for the idea, for the destiny of
our own great nation: how can they feel the spirit that is struggling in
this?"

The condition of Italy has been greatly altered for the better since
Margaret wrote these words, thirty-six years ago; but the American
traveller of this type is to-day, to all intents and purposes, what he
was then.

Margaret left Milan before the end of this September, to return to Rome.
She explored with delight the great Certosa of Pavia, and in Parma saw
the Correggio pictures, of which she says: "A wonderful beauty it is
that informs them,--not that which is the chosen food of my soul, yet a
noble beauty, and which did its message to me also." Parma and Modena
appear to her "obliged to hold their breath while their poor, ignorant
sovereigns skulk in corners, hoping to hide from the coming storm."

Before reaching Rome, Margaret made a second visit to Florence. The
liberty of the press had been recently established in Tuscany, under
happy auspices. This freedom took effect in the establishment of two
liberal papers, "Alba" ("The Dawn"), and "Patria," needless to
translate. The aim of these was to educate the youth and the working
classes, by promoting fearlessness in thought and temperance in action.

The creation of the National Guard had given confidence to the people.
Shortly before Margaret's arrival this event had been celebrated by a
grand public festival, preceded by a general reconciliation of public
and private differences, and culminating in a general embracing, and
exchanging of banners. She speaks of this as a "new great covenant of
brotherly love," in which "all was done in that beautiful poetic manner
peculiar to this artist-people." In this feast of reconciliation
resident Americans bore their part, Horatio Greenough taking the lead
among them. Margaret's ears were refreshed by continually hearing in the
streets the singing of the Roman hymn composed in honor of Pope Pius.
Wishing that her own country might send some substantial token of
sympathy to the land of its great discoverers, she suggests that a
cannon, named for one of these, would be the most fitting gift.[C] The
first letter from Rome after these days is dated Oct. 18, 1847.

CHAPTER XIII