he old woman, her guide's
mother, threw several handfuls of small grain and a large quantity of
onions into a pan full of water to soften. In about half an hour she
thrust her dirty hands into the water, and mixed the whole together, now
and then taking a mouthful, and, after chewing it, spitting it back
again into the pan! She then took a dirty rag, strained off the juice,
and poured it over the flesh in the caldron. Madame Pfeiffer had firmly
resolved to refuse the dish, but when it was ready her appetite was so
keen, and the smell so savoury, that her resolution gave way, and she
comforted herself with the reflection that she must often have eaten of
food prepared in a similar manner. What we do not see, it is easy enough
to tolerate.

* * * * *

On the 28th of June the caravan reached Erbil, anciently Arbela, the
scene of one of Alexander the Great's most famous victories. Two days
later they crossed the great river Sab upon rafts of inflated skins,
fastened together with poles, and covered with reeds, canes, and planks.
Rapidly traversing the Mesopotamian wastes, they arrived at Mosul on the
1st of July, and thence Madame Pfeiffer proceeded to inspect the ruins
of Nineveh. Her description of them, however, presents no points of
interest to merit quotation.

A caravan being about to start for Tabriz, Madame Ida Pfeiffer decided
that she would join it, though warned that it would traverse a country
containing not a single European. But, as we have seen, she was a woman
who knew not what fear was. Nothing could divert her from a fixed
purpose. She had made up her mind to go to Persia, and to Persia she
would go. The caravan set out on the 8th of July, and next day crossed
the hills that intervene between Mesopotamia and Kurdistan. The latter
country has never enjoyed a good reputation among travellers, and Madame
Pfeiffer's experience of it confirmed its evil fame. The travellers were
crossing a recently reaped corn-field, when half-a-dozen Kurds, armed
with stout cudgels, sprang out from their hiding-place among the
sheaves, and, seizing the bridles, poured out a volley of mingled oaths
and menaces. One of the travellers leaped from his steed, seized his
assailant by the throat, and, holding to his head a loaded pistol,
indicated his determination to blow out his brains. The effect of this
courageous conduct was immediate; the robbers desisted from their
attack, and were soon engaged