rely, never before was whist played in the
Mongolian deserts!"

* * * * *

Before accompanying our travellers into these deserts, it may be
convenient that we should note the _personnel_ of their following, and
the organization of their expedition. In addition to Monsieur and Madame
de Bourboulon, the French caravan consisted of six persons:--Captain
Bouvier, of the Engineers; a sergeant and a private of the same branch
of the service; an artillerist; a steward (_intendant_); and a young
Christian, a native of Pekin, whom M. de Bourboulon was taking with him
to France. Madame de Baluseck's suite consisted of a Russian physician;
a French waiting maid; a Lama interpreter, named Gomboi; and a Cossack
(as escort). A small carriage, well hung on two wheels, was provided for
the two ladies. The other travellers journeyed on horseback or in
Chinese carts. These small carts, with hoods of blue cloth, carry only
one passenger; they are not hung upon springs, but are solidly
constructed.

[Illustration: HONG KONG.]

At Zayau-Tologoi, the Chinese drivers were replaced by Mongolian
postillions, and the Chinese mandarins gave up the responsibility of
escort to Mongolian officials.

The Mongolian mode of harnessing is very strange: a long wooden
transversal bar is fastened to the end of the shafts, and on each side a
horseman glides under his saddle; then they set off at full gallop. When
they halt the horsemen disappear, the shafts fall abruptly to the
ground; and the travellers, if they have not a good strong hold, are
projected from the vehicle.

The officers of the escort go in advance to prepare tents or wigwams
formed of hurdles, upon which is stretched a great awning of felt; the
whole has very much the appearance of an enormous umbrella, with a hole
at the top, to let out the heated air, and at need the smoke.

As the travellers carried with them a large stock of provisions, and
fresh meat could generally be obtained from the nomad shepherds, their
table was well served; but owing to the absolute dearth of any other
kind of fuel, they were compelled to kindle their fires with _argols_,
or dried cow-dung.

In due time they entered upon the great desert of Gobi, where the grassy
plain is covered by a countless multitude of mole-hills, which render
locomotion very difficult. This apparently boundless desert,
notwithstanding its lack of trees and shrubs and flowers, and its
monotonous un