spite of time and
the sieges of 1102, 1139, and 1643, is both comfortable and modern;
Arundel still depends for her life upon the complaisance of her
over-lord.

[Sidenote: MODERN MEDIEVALISM]

I know of no town with so low a pulse as this precipitous little
settlement under the shadow of Rome and the Duke. In spite of picnic
parties in the park, in spite of anglers from London, in spite of the
railway in the valley, Arundel is still medieval and curiously foreign.
On a very hot day, as one climbs the hill to the cathedral, one might be
in old France, and certainly in the Middle Ages.

Time's revenges have had their play in this town. Although the church is
still bravely of the establishment, half of it is closed to the Anglican
visitor (the chancel having been adjudged the private property of the
Dukes of Norfolk), and the once dominating position of the edifice has
been impaired by the proximity of the new Roman Catholic church of St.
Philip Neri, which the present Duke has been building these many years.
Within, it is finished, a very charming and delicate feat in stone; but
the spire has yet to come. The old Irish soldier, humorous and
bemedalled, who keeps watch and ward over the fane, is not the least of
its merits.

Although the chancel of the parish church has been closed, permission to
enter may occasionally be obtained. It is rich in family tombs of great
interest and beauty, including that of the nineteenth Earl of Arundel,
the patron of William Caxton. In the siege of Arundel Castle in 1643,
the soldiers of the parliamentarians, under Sir William Waller, fired
their cannon from the church tower. They also turned the church into a
barracks, and injured much stone work beyond repair. A fire beacon
blazed of old on the spire to serve as a mark for vessels entering
Littlehampton harbour.

Bevis of Southampton, the giant who, when he visited the Isle of Wight,
waded thither, was a warder at Arundel Castle; where he ate a whole ox
every week with bread and mustard, and drank two hogsheads of beer.
Hence "Bevis Tower." His sword Morglay is still to be seen in the
armoury of the castle; his bones lie beneath a mound in the park; and
the town was named after his horse. So runs a pretty story, which is,
however, demolished with the ruthlessness that comes so easily to the
antiquary and philologist. Bevis Tower, science declares, was named
probably after another Bevis--there was one at the Battle of Lewes, who
t