e at once
volunteered to be our guide to the galleries here; and in all our
movements here our kind friend has been with us. The most imposing
building here is the Stadhuis, or Palace. It was finished in 1655, and
used to be the seat of the town councils. Louis Bonaparte used it as his
residence; and the king occupies it when he comes here. The marble hall
is esteemed one of the noblest rooms in Europe, and is one hundred and
twenty feet long, fifty-seven wide, and nearly one hundred feet high.
From the top of this building you get a capital view of the town, cut up
into artificial islands by the intersection of canals, &c. In this
building is much fine statuary, and a few historical paintings.

The churches are large, but look barn-like. The organ of the old church
is very rich in its decorations; and here, as at Harlem, men sit in
church with their hats on, if they choose. The clergy wear a short,
black cloak, and deep white ruffs on the neck. The Jews are quite
numerous, and have several synagogues. They live mostly in one part of
the city. I do not think we shall any of us forget our visit to the
picture gallery at Amsterdam. Our attention was directed by Mr. S. to
the best paintings, and the particular merits of the artists were kindly
explained to us. The sight of a great picture is an event; and I think
that the day on which I first saw Rembrandt's Night Watch will long be
regarded by me with pleasurable feelings. It is a company of archers,
who are going out with their captain. The lights and shades are
wonderfully introduced. The City Guards of Amsterdam, by Vanderhelst, is
a large picture, with twenty-five portraits, and is esteemed as the
finest portrait picture in the world. But my favorite here is a small
picture called the Night School, by Gerard Dow. I would cheerfully go a
hundred miles on foot to see such a picture. The management of the
lights upon the interior and figures is beyond any thing I have
imagined. His Hermit and Crucifix is another gem. The picture of
Officers plundered by Peasants, by Wouvermans, and several landscapes of
his, are still in my mind's eye; and several pictures by the two
Ostades, Teniers, and Both are quite sufficient to make me understand
how it is that some men have found such fascination in collecting a
gallery. The best specimens of Jan Steen are in this city, and his Fete
of St. Nicholas would take wonderfully well with our good old
Knickerbockers at home. A Landscape,