, and the treat was very great. It is
quite clear that the art is not lost here, and that rare excellence is
still to be found among the Dutch painters. We were all delighted with a
picture of Charles IX. of France, and his surgeon, Ambrose Pare. The
time is just before the Bartholomew massacre; and Catharine is in the
room, plotting with her wretched son. Some of the portraits were
remarkable productions, and evince a power rarely seen in this
department. Some of the interiors of houses and churches were quite in
the style of Ostade, Neefs, and Gerard Dow. A picture of the Virgin,
and Jesus and John, by Schwartze, of Amsterdam, received general praise.
Of this artist I shall have more to say.

The great Lake of Harlem, which is thirty miles in circumference, is to
be drained; and for several years operations have been in progress to
this end. The immense works employed for this purpose are worthy of
notice.

After leaving Harlem, and taking leave of our kind friend the minister
at the Hague, with his amiable family, we again entered the cars, and,
after riding twelve miles, reached Amsterdam. The chief feature on the
way was the everlasting wind mill, employed here to grind wheat, &c. We
went to the Hotel Doelen, and found it all that Mr. Folsom had said.
This is a great city, of two hundred and twenty-five thousand
inhabitants. The canals are immense affairs, and the ships and vessels
of all sorts give it a very active appearance. All round the city is a
wide fosse; and there are four great canals inside, with many minor
cuts. Some of these canals are more than one hundred and twenty-five
feet wide, and are edged with very fine houses; and the intercourse of
the city is kept up by some two hundred and fifty bridges. The city is
about eight miles round. Every one seems actively employed.

Yours affectionately,

J.O.C.

Letter 38.

AMSTERDAM.

DEAR CHARLEY:--

The next morning after reaching this fine, but queer city, we called on
the American consul, and he gave us a very friendly reception. He is
quite a young man, but seems to be full of energy. At his house we met a
Mr. J. G. Schwartze, a native of Philadelphia, but who came to Holland
very young, and has made this city his residence. He is highly
distinguished as an artist; and we saw a fine production of his at the
exhibition at the Hague. Mr. Schwartze is a charming companion--full of
enthusiasm; and when he found that I was fond of pictures, h