I never longed
to follow a river more than I do this same Neckar--it is so clear, and
all my glimpses of it have been so filled up with quiet beauty and wild
scenery. We saw a hill, near the town, which affords the finest view, we
are told, in Germany, and even takes in Strasburg Cathedral spire, which
is quite ninety miles off!

From Heidelberg we again took the cars for Kehl, about four miles from
Strasburg, a distance of nearly ninety miles. The first-class cars are
very luxurious and reasonable; second class, excellent, and very
genteel-looking persons using them. Lord Cowley, father of Lady Bulwer,
wife of the minister from England at Washington, was in the cars with
us, and two of his children--one a beautiful little girl. They were
going to Baden, and were accompanied by a governess.

We found no more of the extraordinary beauty that had made our morning
ride so charming. Bruchsal seemed a dull place, as seen from the
station; and Durlach had not much greater attractions. Carlsruhe is
quite a place, has some repute for its baths, and is the capital of the
grand duchy of Baden. Off to the south of this town we saw the skirts of
the Black Forest. All around we saw a fine growth of poplars. Passing
Etlingen and Muggensturm, we come to Rastadt--rather a pretty station,
and the town is fortified. At Oos our passengers for Baden took a branch
train, which, after three miles' ride, brought them into the famous
Baden-Baden. We reached Kehl, which is a mere village on the Rhine, but
has seen enough of war. Here we took an omnibus and started for
Strasburg, distant some four miles. When we reached the French
custom-house, over the river, we had quite a searching time; and even a
flask of cologne was taxed some twenty cents. We were weary enough, and
glad to get into quarters, which we established at the Ville de Paris,
a very superior house, with excellent rooms and elegant furniture, while
the cookery was perfect. To-morrow we have enough to see and to do.
To-night we shall retire early; but, go where we may, we shall furnish
you the promised account of our wanderings.

Yours affectionately,

J.O.C.

Letter 43.

STRASBURG.

DEAR CHARLEY:--

Long before we entered this city, we obtained a fine view of its great
glory, the Cathedral spire. What an object! It does not seem as if
hammer and chisel had had any thing to do here. I can almost fancy that
this spire was thought out and elaborated by mere intelle