After several hours we used to resume our journey until
nightfall or later to our next camping ground. Every man had to take
his turn about at herding cattle and horses during the nighttime. Only
the cooks were exempt from doing herd and guard duty.

We pitched our nightly camps by forming two closed half circles of our
wagons, one on each side of the road so as to form a corral. By means
of connecting the wagons with chains, this made a strong barricade,
quite efficient to repulse the attacks of hostile Indians, if defended
by determined men. Every freight train when in camp was a little fort
in itself and an interesting sight at nighttime, when the blazing fires
were surrounded by men who were cooking and passing the time in various
ways. Some were cleaning and loading their guns, others mended their
clothes. Here and there you would find some genius playing dreamy,
monotonous Spanish airs on the guitar, in the midst of a merry group of
dancing and singing young Mexicans, many of whom were not older than I.
Card-playing seemed, however, to be their favorite pastime; all
Mexicans are inveterate gamesters, who look upon the profession of
gambling as an honorable and desirable occupation.

After the first day out I did not see an inebriated man in the whole
party. The Mexicans are really a much maligned and slandered people.
They are often charged with the sin of postponing every imaginable
thing until manana, but, to do them justice, I must say that they drank
every drop of liquor they carried on the first day out; also ate all
the dainties which other people would have saved and relished for days
to come. Surely, not manana, but ahora, or "do it now" was their
soul-stirring battle cry on this occasion.

After several days of travel we encountered herds of buffalo and
mustangs or wild horses, and when our scouts reported numerous Indian
signs, we advanced slowly and carefully, momentarily expecting an
ambuscade and attack. Our column halted frequently while our horsemen
explored suspicious-looking hillocks and ravines.

A dense column of smoke rose suddenly in our front, and I saw several
detachments of Indian warriors on a little hill, who were evidently
reconnoitering, and spying our strength, but did not expose themselves
fully to view. Simultaneously columns of signal smoke arose in all
directions round about. Instantly our lines closed in the front and
rear and we came to an abrupt halt. What I saw then made my