fine my observations more
particularly to Sweden.

It is true I have only had a glance over a small part of it; yet of its
present state of manners and acquirements I think I have formed a
distinct idea, without having visited the capital--where, in fact, less
of a national character is to be found than in the remote parts of the
country.

The Swedes pique themselves on their politeness; but far from being the
polish of a cultivated mind, it consists merely of tiresome forms and
ceremonies. So far, indeed, from entering immediately into your
character, and making you feel instantly at your ease, like the well-bred
French, their over-acted civility is a continual restraint on all your
actions. The sort of superiority which a fortune gives when there is no
superiority of education, excepting what consists in the observance of
senseless forms, has a contrary effect than what is intended; so that I
could not help reckoning the peasantry the politest people of Sweden,
who, only aiming at pleasing you, never think of being admired for their
behaviour.

Their tables, like their compliments, seem equally a caricature of the
French. The dishes are composed, as well as theirs, of a variety of
mixtures to destroy the native taste of the food without being as
relishing. Spices and sugar are put into everything, even into the
bread; and the only way I can account for their partiality to
high-seasoned dishes is the constant use of salted provisions. Necessity
obliges them to lay up a store of dried fish and salted meat for the
winter; and in summer, fresh meat and fish taste insipid after them. To
which may be added the constant use of spirits. Every day, before dinner
and supper, even whilst the dishes are cooling on the table, men and
women repair to a side-table; and to obtain an appetite eat bread-and-
butter, cheese, raw salmon, or anchovies, drinking a glass of brandy.
Salt fish or meat then immediately follows, to give a further whet to the
stomach. As the dinner advances, pardon me for taking up a few minutes
to describe what, alas! has detained me two or three hours on the stretch
observing, dish after dish is changed, in endless rotation, and handed
round with solemn pace to each guest; but should you happen not to like
the first dishes, which was often my case, it is a gross breach of
politeness to ask for part of any other till its turn comes. But have
patience, and there will be eating enough. Allow me to ru