inctly observed by the generality of mankind; yet
a contemplative man, or poet, in the country--I do not mean the country
adjacent to cities--feels and sees what would escape vulgar eyes, and
draws suitable inferences. This train of reflections might have led me
further, in every sense of the word; but I could not escape from the
detestable evaporation of the herrings, which poisoned all my pleasure.

After making a tolerable supper--for it is not easy to get fresh
provisions on the road--I retired, to be lulled to sleep by the murmuring
of a stream, of which I with great difficulty obtained sufficient to
perform my daily ablutions.

The last battle between the Danes and Swedes, which gave new life to
their ancient enmity, was fought at this place 1788; only seventeen or
eighteen were killed, for the great superiority of the Danes and
Norwegians obliged the Swedes to submit; but sickness, and a scarcity of
provision, proved very fatal to their opponents on their return.

It would be very easy to search for the particulars of this engagement in
the publications of the day; but as this manner of filling my pages does
not come within my plan, I probably should not have remarked that the
battle was fought here, were it not to relate an anecdote which I had
from good authority.

I noticed, when I first mentioned this place to you, that we descended a
steep before we came to the inn; an immense ridge of rocks stretching out
on one side. The inn was sheltered under them; and about a hundred yards
from it was a bridge that crossed the river, the murmurs of which I have
celebrated; it was not fordable. The Swedish general received orders to
stop at the bridge and dispute the passage--a most advantageous post for
an army so much inferior in force; but the influence of beauty is not
confined to courts. The mistress of the inn was handsome; when I saw her
there were still some remains of beauty; and, to preserve her house, the
general gave up the only tenable station. He was afterwards broke for
contempt of orders.

Approaching the frontiers, consequently the sea, nature resumed an aspect
ruder and ruder, or rather seemed the bones of the world waiting to be
clothed with everything necessary to give life and beauty. Still it was
sublime.

The clouds caught their hue of the rocks that menaced them. The sun
appeared afraid to shine, the birds ceased to sing, and the flowers to
bloom; but the eagle fixed his nest high amo