s of
those stirring days, I found much the same dramatic interest I feel on
stepping into the silent streets of Pompeii, where the ghosts seem more
real than I.

We stopped at the house of the _gardien_, and I made an excuse for
leaving Miss Randolph at a little distance, as I talked to him, reminded
him of my last visit, and begged that, as a favour, he would show us
about, although it was now "after hours." He is a very good fellow,
courteous and intelligent, speaking with the noticeably distinct
enunciation which seems to be the mark of all these guardians of
_monuments historiques_ in France; and when he understood that there was
a lady in the case, he readily consented to oblige, though I suspect he
left his supper in the midst. He took off his cap to Miss Randolph's
beauty, etherealised by the moon's magic, and we all three started on
our expedition. We were conducted into huge, round towers and out upon
lofty, commanding battlements, whence we could gaze through a haze of
moonlight over a great sweep of country, with here and there the sparkle
of a winding river, like a diamond necklace flung down carelessly on a
purple cushion. Our guide conscientiously pointed out the stations of
the sentries and the guards, the disposition of the towers for mutual
defence (each a bowshot from the other), the sally-ports, the secret
passages communicating with underground tunnels for revictualling the
city in time of siege; and so realistic were our surroundings that I
fancied Miss Randolph once or twice actually caught herself listening in
vain for the tramp of mailed feet, the hoarse word of command. At all
events, I'm sure she forgot for the time being all about Aunt Mary and
Jimmy Payne waiting in the car, and I didn't think it incumbent upon me
to remind her of their existence or necessities. We lingered long enough
in the splendid region of towers, battlements, and ramparts to do them
full justice. Then, when I had slipped something of no importance into
the _gardien's_ hand, we reluctantly departed, often looking back as we
went down the hill. As we left the old city we did not leave it alone. A
group of young men and women of a humble class were hurrying down just
before us on their way to the new town. We were so near that we couldn't
help over-hearing their eager talk of a spectacle they were on their way
to see, and judging from the fragments we caught, this was to be a kind
of Passion Play. Although I had been at Ca