e tourist's attention must
nevertheless be drawn to this part of religious buildings; it must
not escape his observation when visiting cathedral and parish churches,
and above all, monastical churches.

[Illustration: CLOISTER STALLS IN A MONASTIC CHURCH AT LEON]

* * * * *

RETABLO.--The above remarks hold good here as well, when speaking about
the huge and imposing altar-pieces so universally characteristic of
Spain.

The eastern wall of the holy chapel in a cathedral is entirely hidden
from top to bottom by the _retablo_, a painted wooden structure
resembling a huge honeycomb. It consists of niches flanked by gilded
columns. According to the construction of these columns, now Gothic
shafts, now Greek or composite, now simple and severe, the period to
which the _retablo_ belongs is determined.

Generally pyramidically superimposed, these niches, of the height,
breadth, and depth of an average man, contain life-size statues of
apostle or saint, painted and decorated by the _estofadores_ in
brilliant colours (of course, as they are intended to be seen from a
distance!), in which red and blue are predominant, and which produce a
gorgeous effect _rehausse_ by the gilt columns of the niches. (Compare
with the Oriental taste of _Mudejar_ work in ceilings or
_artesonados_.)

The whole _retablo_, in the low reliefs which form the base, and in the
statues or groups in the niches, represents graphically the life of the
Saviour or the Virgin, of the patron saint or an apostle; some of them
are of exquisite execution and of great variety and movement; in others,
greater attention has been paid to the decoration of the columns or
shafts by original floral garlands, etc. Foment, Juni, and Berruguete
are among the most noted _retablo_ sculptors, but space will not permit
of a more prolific classification or analysis.

* * * * *

GOLD AND SILVERSMITHS.--The vessels used on the altar-table, effigies of
saints, processional crosses, etc., in beaten gold and silver, are well
worth examination. So is also the cathedral treasure, in some cases of
an immense value, both artistic and intrinsic. Cloths, woven in coloured
silks, gold, and precious stones, are beautiful enough to make any art
lover envious.

The central niche of the _retablo_, immediately above the altar-table,
is generally occupied by a massive beaten silver effigy, the artistic
value of which is unluck