console the foolish"; "He
who has been bitten by a viper fears the lizard"; "The wolf changes his
skin, but not his habits"; "As the mother spins, so the daughter
weaves"; "Horses by their pace, maidens by their stock."

They are a powerful and a proud race, as the following story from Fortis
shows, and will without doubt leave their mark on European history when
their culture equals their physical powers; but the present
race-animosity between Croat and Italian is deplorable. The Croats,
being in the majority, are using their power to oppress the
Italian-speaking portion of the population. The schools are now all
Croat, and the Italians have no means of instruction for their children
in their own language except at Zara. At Spalato the race-feeling is
especially bitter; it is the only city in Dalmatia in which the
anniversary of the Italian defeat at Lissa is feted with display of
flags and music by the _municipio_. The Italian theatre was burnt down
some years ago, and the Croat majority on the council voted a large sum
of money (stated to have been L60,000) to build a new Croat theatre to
replace it; and this they refused to let to Italian companies. But there
are no Croat companies ready to bear the expense of coming to Spalato,
so the theatre remains closed!

The story told by Fortis is as follows: "Venice was exchanging
prisoners-of-war with the Turks, and gave several Turkish soldiers for
each Dalmatian. A deputy of the Porte observed that this was scarcely
fair, to whom a Morlacco of Sinj replied fiercely: 'Know that our prince
willingly gives many asses for a horse.'"

III

AQUILEIA

The city of Aquileia, called by the Greeks Chrysopolis, because it was
one of the largest and richest cities of the empire, is now represented
by a cluster of houses, a cathedral, and a museum in which the greater
part of the objects found by excavating are housed. It is easily reached
by carriage from either Villa Vicentina or Cervignano, a pleasant drive
of an hour or so; and it gives one some idea of the size of the ancient
city to remember that the whole of the ground passed over, at least from
Villa Vicentina, was originally included in its suburbs. The city
stretched 16 miles along the shore, but the ground has sunk some five
feet, and much of ancient Aquileia now lies beneath the lagoon. The
inscriptions show that most of the inhabitants were foreigners. At
present the environs are malarious; but at the time w