(January 15,
1796), and deposited in this cathedral in the presence of all the high
authorities of the island. These remains have again been removed, and
are now interred at Seville, in Spain. The cathedral, aside from this
association, is really attractive, and one lingers with quiet
thoughtfulness among its marble aisles and confessionals. The lofty
dome is supported by pillars of marble and the walls are frescoed. The
high altar is a remarkable composition, with pillars of porphyry
mingled with a confusion of images, candlesticks, and tinsel. The
stalls for the priests are handsomely carved in mahogany. It was
annoying to see Gothic grandeur and modern frippery so mingled as was
observable in this church. When mass is being performed women attend
in goodly numbers, but one rarely sees any of the male population
present, unless they be, like the author, strangers come hither from
curiosity to see the interior of this Cathedral de la Virgen Maria de
la Concepcion.

All persons who come to Havana visit the cathedral because it contains
the tomb of Columbus, but if they have traveled in Europe they have
seen so much finer structures of this class, especially in Spain, that
this one challenges but little attention. Let us, gentle reader, go up
into the lofty bell tower, where we shall find the most comprehensive
view possible of the Cuban capital. The old bell-ringer, seated before
a deal table, ekes out a scanty living by making cigars away up here
in his circumscribed eyrie. What an original he would have been in the
practiced hands of Victor Hugo! This hermit of the tower will call
your attention to the ancient bells, which are his sole companions:
one bears the date of 1664, with a half-defaced Latin legend; another
is dated at London, 1698. He is a queer old enthusiast about these
bells, and will tell you on what special occasions of interest he has
caused them to speak with metallic tongue to the people: now as a
danger signal; then uttering sounds of triumph and announcing a
victory; again, tolling the notes of sorrow for the departed, or as
merry marriage bells, the heralds of joy. He will tell you how many
years, man and boy, he has summoned the devout to matins and to
vespers with their resonant voices. If you have a fancy for such
things, and some silver to spare, after leaving the bell tower the
sacristan will show you the rich vestments, robes, and laces for
priestly wear belonging to the church, not forgett