and is well worthy of a visit by all who can find the necessary
time for doing so.

Between Havana and Nuevitas, along the northern slope of the island,
are many vast tracts of unimproved land of the best quality. Much of
it is overgrown with cedar, ebony, mahogany, and other valuable
timber; but a large proportion is savanna or prairie, which might,
with little difficulty, be reduced to cultivation. The timber alone,
which is often found in large compact bodies, would pay the cost of
the land and the expense of clearing it. Many branches of agriculture
are neglected which might be made very remunerative, but it will never
be brought about except by foreign capital and tact. The natives have
not the requisite enterprise and industry. While these chapters are
passing through the press, the home government is discussing in the
Cortes the propriety of making a large loan to the Cubans for the
purpose of bringing the lands above referred to into market, as well
as rendering others accessible. But it is doubtful if anything
practical is accomplished, unless foreign interest should be enlisted.

CHAPTER VII.

City of Havana. -- First Impressions. -- The Harbor. --
Institutions. -- Lack of Educational Facilities. -- Cuban
Women. -- Street Etiquette. -- Architecture. -- Domestic
Arrangements. -- Barred Windows and Bullet-Proof Doors. --
Public Vehicles. -- Uncleanliness of the Streets. -- Spanish
or African! -- The Church Bells. -- Home-Keeping Habits of
Ladies. -- Their Patriotism. -- Personal Characteristics. --
Low Ebb of Social Life. -- Priestcraft. -- Female Virtue. --
Domestic Ties. -- A Festive Population. -- Cosmetics. --
Sea-Bathing.

Havana is a thoroughly representative city,--Cuban and nothing else.
Its history embraces in no small degree that of all the island, being
the centre of its talent, wealth, and population. It has long been
reckoned the eighth commercial capital of the world. Moro Castle, with
its Dahlgren guns peeping out through the yellow stones, and its tall
sentinel lighthouse, stands guard over the narrow entrance of the
harbor; the battery of La Punta on the opposite shore answering to the
Moro. There are also the long range of cannon and barracks on the city
side, and the massive fortress of the Cabanas crowning the hill behind
the Moro. All these are decorated with the red and yellow flag of
Spain,--the banner of blo