ich swarm the naked juveniles of color, a
half-clad, slatternly mother appearing now and then. The father of
this brood, if there be an acknowledged one, is probably at work upon
some plantation not far away, while madame takes in linen to wash, but
being possibly herself a slave, pays over one half of her earnings to
some city master. High and low life are ever present in strong
contrast, and in the best of humor with each other, affording elements
of the picturesque, if not of the beautiful. Neatness must be ignored
where such human conglomeration exists, and as we all know, at certain
seasons of the year, like dear, delightful, dirty Naples, Havana is
the hot-bed of pestilence. The dryness of the atmosphere transforms
most of the street offal into fine powder, which salutes nose, eyes,
ears, and mouth under the influence of the slightest breeze. Though
there are ample bathing facilities in and about the city, the people
of either sex seem to have a prejudice against their free use. In most
hot climates the natives duly appreciate the advantage of an abundance
of water, and luxuriate in its use, but it is not so in Cuba. We were
told of ladies who content themselves with only wiping neck, face, and
hands daily upon a towel saturated with island rum, and, from what was
obvious, it is easy to believe this to be true.
Sea-bathing is a luxury which the Northern visitor will be glad to
improve, if the natives are not, and for their information let us
state that it may be safely enjoyed here. Establishments will be found
where baths have been cut in the rock on the shore, west of the Punta
fort, along the Calle Ancha del Norte. Here water is introduced fresh
from the Gulf Stream, sparkling and invigorating, and characterized by
much more salt and iodine than is found in more northern latitudes. It
is the purest sea-bathing to be found in any city that we know of,
refreshing and healthful, producing a sensation upon the surface of
the body similar to that of sparkling soda-water on the palate. The
island abounds in mineral springs, both hot and cold, all more or less
similar in character, and belonging to the class of sulphur springs.
Many of these have considerable local reputation for their curative
properties.
In passing through O'Riley, Obispo, Obrapia, or any business streets
at about eleven o'clock in the forenoon and glancing into the stores,
workshops, business offices, and the like, one is sure to see the
master
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