steamers ply in various directions in the harbour of
Rio. Our friend proposed a trip up the country, which would last during
the few days we had to spare. We started in one of the smallest of the
steamers, and went up the River Macacu. One thing struck us--a boat
laden with slaves, which had been landed on the opposite shore, and were
being smuggled into the city. We went on shore at the small town of
Porto Sampaio, and thence on mule back about fifteen miles, to the
country-house of a Brazilian gentleman, our friend's friend. We four
had a room to ourselves--a large, roughly built apartment. Scarcely
were we all in bed, and the light out, when, just as I had dropped
asleep, down came something on my nose. I started up, and there
appeared to be a tremendous clattering and pattering about the room.

"I say, Harry, what are you heaving at me?" sung out Jerry, springing up
also.

"Rather, what are you throwing at me?" I retorted.

"Hillo! what's the matter?" cried the doctor; "I felt something soft
slip through my fingers--animals of some sort--what can they be?"

"Only rats!" said our friend, awoke by our exclamations. "I know they
are somewhat numerous in this house."

We all sat up, and began shouting and striking right and left; but the
rats did not mind us a bit. At last the doctor lighted a lucifer match,
and away scampered at least a hundred rats into the holes from whence
they had come out. We thought that we were to have rest, but as soon as
darkness and silence were restored, out they all came again, and made as
much hubbub as before. Jerry and I kept knocking about us to little
purpose, till we both fell back asleep; and all night long I dreamed
that I was fighting with a host of black men on the coast of Africa.
When the morning broke, they scampered away like so many evil spirits,
leaving their marks, however, behind them. They had committed no little
mischief also. They had gnawed through our friend's shoes and the
doctor's leather cigar-case; they had carried off Jerry's leather
braces--the remains of which were found near one of the holes--and the
front strap of my cap. We all had suffered, but, as Jerry remarked, as
they had left us our noses and toes it did not much signify. They
infest the country in all directions, we were told.

The estate we were on produced chiefly sugar. The milk by which the
canes are crushed consisted of three vertical wooden rollers worked by
mules. The mo