us; while the next instant we were looking down into a vale of waters of
depth so great, that it seemed, if we slipped into it, we should never
again struggle upwards. When summoned to dinner, I went below with the
expectation that I should be unable to have a mouthful; instead of
which, there appeared to be very little more motion than usual, so
easily rode the ship; and I could scarcely persuade myself that I had
but just left a scene of such wild confusion on deck. The gale did not
last more than twelve hours, and the ship was then once more put on her
proper course for the Falkland Islands.

"Land ho! land ho!" was shouted one forenoon from aloft, with the usual
prolonged cry. The Falkland Islands were in sight, and the land seen as
we drew nearer, I found, was that about Cape Bougainville. We stood on,
and next we made out the rugged hills above Berkley Sound, and then got
close to the dark brown cliffs of Macbride's Head, with hundreds of
seals lying on the sands and rocks below them. We could hear the roar
of the beasts as they looked up at us, indignant, I thought, at being
disturbed by our approach; but Mr Brand told me that, fierce as they
looked, they are a very harmless race, and easily captured. On the
downs above were numerous cattle feeding, which gave us the idea that we
were approaching some civilised part of the world. Passing Berkley
Sound with a stiff breeze, which rushed out of it, we stood on for Mount
Low, and then beat up Port William, which has a line of sand hills on
one side of it, and Stanley Harbour at the end. Although the day was
fine, the appearance of the country was not very attractive; for there
are no trees--rocks, and sand hills, and tussac grass, and barren
heights, being the chief features. We dropped anchor opposite Stanley,
the capital of the settlement. Above a line of piers and quays appeared
a double row of neat white cottages, inhabited by the pensioners who
were sent out to assist in founding the colony. Round and about them
are other houses and cottages, extending along the shores of the bay,
and sprinkled on the sides of a gentle slope. They are generally of
light tints, which contrast well with the dark background of the hill
beyond, and give the place a pretty appearance. Further up is the
church, not a very ecclesiastical-looking building; and beyond again,
the cemetery, which has a neat chapel attached to it. The Government
House is a long, low cottage ed