Muley Dris Zerone, on the
declivity of the mountains of Atlas, east of Mequinas; thence to
_Kassar Farawan_ (the ruins of Pharaoh), and through the warlike
107 province of the Ait Amor, to L'Araich, Arzilla, and to Tangier.

I took with me two of the finest horses in the country, to ride
alternately. Two mules and three camels carried my baggage, tents,
&c. Muhamed of Diabet, commonly called _Deeb_, I engaged as
tent-master; this is the man that astonished Aly Bey El Abassy,
when he shot the fish in the river, as recorded by that interesting
traveller. I engaged a most excellent fellow as cook, a man who had
performed many journies in a similar capacity with the princes; he
was acquainted with the roads, the country, and the character of
the people; the camel-drivers and muleteers completed our party.
We arrived at Tela at nine o'clock in the evening, being a journey
of five hours. We remained at Tela the whole of the following day,
and started on the 6th June at seven o'clock; arrived, at ten
o'clock, at Akkermute, a town in ruins, in the plains west of
_Jebbel El Heddeed_ (the iron mountains), which was depopulated by
the plague about fifty years since. Passing through the plains of
Akkermute, towards the river Tensift, we saw a party of Arabs
hunting partridges; we did not stop to see this novel sport, but I
was informed that the dogs were directed by the huntsmen to the
spot where the birds settled, which roused them; they then pursued
them again, and after rousing them several times without
intermission, the birds become fatigued and exhausted by continual
108 flying, and the dogs then run them down and seize on them. In six
hours from Akkermute, at four o'clock, P.M., we reached the river
Tensift, which brings its water from the Atlas, east of Marocco,
meandering through the plains and passing about three miles north
of that city.

We pitched our tents under the walls of the (_Luksebba_) castle, on
the south bank of the river.

We started the next morning at six o'clock, and travelling through
a fine country, we came to a narrow pass on the declivity of a
lofty mountain called Jerf El Eudie, a most picturesque country,
and arrived at the port of Saffy at eleven o'clock. Saffy has no
harbour, but a road where ships are obliged to put to sea wh