Illinois. It has the same air of a helmet, as seen from an
eminence at the side, which you descend by a long and steep path. The
rock itself may be ascended by the bold and agile. Halfway up is a
niche, to which those, who are neither, can climb by a ladder. A very
handsome young officer and lady who were with us did so, and then,
facing round, stood there side by side, looking in the niche, if not
like saints or angels wrought by pious hands in stone, as romantically,
if not as holily, worthy the gazer's eye.

The woods which adorn the central ridge of the island are very full in
foliage, and, in August, showed the tender green and pliant leaf of June
elsewhere. They are rich in beautiful mosses and the wild raspberry.

From Fort Holmes, the old fort, we had the most commanding view of the
lake and straits, opposite shores, and fair islets. Mackinaw, itself, is
best seen from the water. Its peculiar shape is supposed to have been
the origin of its name, Michilimackinac, which means the Great Turtle.
One person whom I saw, wished to establish another etymology, which he
fancied to be more refined; but, I doubt not, this is the true one, both
because the shape might suggest such a name, and that the existence of
an island in this commanding position, which did so, would seem a
significant fact to the Indians. For Henry gives the details of peculiar
worship paid to the Great Turtle, and the oracles received from this
extraordinary Apollo of the Indian Delphos.

It is crowned most picturesquely, by the white fort, with its gay flag.
From this, on one side, stretches the town. How pleasing a sight, after
the raw, crude, staring assemblage of houses, everywhere else to be met
in this country, an old French town, mellow in its coloring, and with
the harmonious effect of a slow growth, which assimilates, naturally,
with objects round it. The people in its streets, Indian, French,
half-breeds, and others, walked with a leisure step, as of those who
live a life of taste and inclination, rather than of the hard press of
business, as in American towns elsewhere.

On the other side, along the fair, curving beach, below the white houses
scattered on the declivity, clustered the Indian lodges, with their
amber brown matting, so soft, and bright of hue, in the late afternoon
sun. The first afternoon I was there, looking down from a near height, I
felt that I never wished to see a more fascinating picture. It was an
hour of the deep