tation
beside which stands the tomb of a holy man. The schedule calls for a
stop of a minute at most. But no sooner had we arrived than what was my
stupefaction to see all the Mohammedans on the train get off, spread
their prayer-rugs, and tranquilly begin their devotions. The
station-master blew his whistle, the conductor yelled at them that he
was going to leave them behind; nobody budged. A squad of railway
employees had to be mobilized, who, with blows and curses, finally
bundled these pious persons back into the train again. The business
lasted a good quarter of an hour, and was not easy. The more vigorous of
the worshippers put up an energetic resistance.

"The above is only a casual instance, chosen at random. What is certain
is that these peoples do not yet understand what we mean by exactitude,
and that the concept of a well-regulated existence has not yet
penetrated their heads."[97]

What has just been written of course applies primarily to the ignorant
masses. But this attitude of mind is more or less common to all classes
of Oriental peoples. The habits of centuries are not easily transformed.
In fact, it must not be forgotten that the upper classes were able to
enjoy most fully the capricious personal liberty of the unmodified East,
and that, therefore, though they may be better able to understand the
value of Westernization, they have in one sense the most to lose.[98]

In fact, for all Orientals, high and low alike, the "good old times"
had charms which they mournfully regret. For the prince, the pasha, the
courtier, existence was truly an Oriental paradise. To be sure, the
prince might at any moment be defeated and slain by a rival monarch; the
pasha strangled at his master's order; the courtier tortured through a
superior's whim. But, meanwhile, it was "life," rich and full. "Each of
these men had his own character and his own renown among his countrymen,
and each enjoyed a position such as is now unattainable in Europe, in
which he was released from laws, could indulge his own fancies, bad or
good, and was fed every day and all day with the special flattery of
Asia--that willing submissiveness to mere volition which is so like
adoration, and which is to its recipients the most intoxicating of
delights. Each, too, had his court of followers, and every courtier
shared in the power, the luxury, and the adulation accruing to his lord.
The power was that of life and death; the luxury included possession