ue Celtic race, its language, names,
features, costumes, and superstitions are to be found.
This is the true Brittany, the Bretagne Bretonnante of Froissart, who
calls the eastern part of the province, La Bretagne Douce, because the
French language is spoken there. Dol was the great bulwark of Brittany
against Normandy; the wall and moat surrounding the town, with some of the
towers, still remain. Many of the houses are built, as the French term it,
"en colombage" that is, with the upper story projecting some fifteen feet
over the ground-floor, forming a gallery or porch supported by oak posts
or columns with sculptured capitals of the thirteenth century. The inn we
occupied had one of these porches: Madame Barbot, our landlady, and her
maid, were both dressed in Breton costume, with lace-trimmed embroidered
caps and aprons of fine muslin, clear-starched and ironed with a
perfection which the most accomplished "blanchisseuse du fin" of Paris
would find it difficult to surpass. The people here have the Breton
physiognomy, sharp black eyes, short roundi faces and brown freckled
complexions, a contrast to the blue eyes, long oval faces, and bright
tints of their Norman neighbours.
[Illustration: 7. Pilaster and Cornice from the Tomb of Bishop James,
Cathedral, Dol.]
The principal building at Dol is the Cathedral, built of grey granite, in
the style of many of our English churches. On the south is the "porte
episcopale," a large projecting porch with mullioned sides, and, near it,
a smaller porch with a central column semee of hearts, the "armes
parlantes" of Bishop Coeuret who built it. The clustered columns of the
nave, consist of a central pillar surrounded by four others running up to
the roof, so slender and delicate that they are united to the centre by
small bars of iron. Over the high altar is an enormous wooden crozier,
carved and gilt, from which the Host is suspended. A beautiful Renaissance
tomb on the north side of the cathedral was raised in 1507 to the memory
of Bishop James, who died three years before. The sculpture is much
mutilated, but the arabesques are most delicately and elegantly chiselled.
It is supposed to be the work of Jean Just of Tours, sculptor of the
magnificent tomb of Louis XII. and Anne of Brittany, erected at St. Denis
by order of Francis I.
[Illustration: 8. Front of the Tomb of Bishop James, Cathedral, Dol.]
The chapel of St. Samson, patron saint of the cathedral, has been
res
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