The government became thus responsible for their persons and
property. Instead of trunks, they had two large bags, two
saddle-bags, and two valises, all of thick Russian leather, fastened
with padlocks, and impermeable to water. Instead of mattresses, each
had a carpet and coverlet rolled in painted canvas, that served as a
floor at night, when it was their lot to lie on the ground. Each had
an ample Turkish pelisse, lined with the fur of the Caucasian fox.
Four copper pans, a mill for grinding coffee, a pot, cups, and a
knife, fork, and spoon for each, were their utensils for cooking and
eating. A circular piece of leather served for a table when spread
upon the ground, and when drawn together like a lady's reticule, and
suspended from the saddle, it formed a bag to carry their bread and
cheese. The whole was so compact as to require, on ordinary
occasions, but a single extra horse. As the Turkish post furnished
only horses, they were obliged to add saddles and bridles to their
other accoutrements; and to their saddles, as was usual, were
attached holsters, to deter from hostile attacks upon them. To avoid
unnecessary notice, expense, and trouble, if not insult, they wore
loose Turkish robes, the Oriental turban, and the enormous Tartar
stockings and boots. Of course they had also the needful firmans,
passports, and letters of introduction.

Their route lay along what at that time might be called, for the
most part, the high road to Tabriz, and passed through Tokat,
Erzroom, Kars, Tiflis, Shoosha, Nakhchevan, Echmiadzin, and Khoy, a
distance of more than fifteen hundred miles. At Tokat, the
travellers visited the grave of Henry Martyn, who died there in
1812. On the 13th of June, they entered Erzroom, then in possession
of an invading army of Russians; which soon retired, and was
accompanied by a large portion of the Armenian population in that
district. The Turks of Erzroom found it hard to comprehend from what
country the travellers came. Kars, Tiflis, Shoosha, and Echmiadzin
had been subjected to Russian rule. Tiflis was the capital of
Georgia. Shoosha, where they arrived about the middle of August,
worn down by fatigue in descending the insalubrious valley of the
Koor, or Cyrus, was then the seat of a German mission, which gave a
cordial reception to their American brethren. The cholera prevailed
in all that region, and it was estimated that as many as seventy
thousand people died of it, during the two months and