nothing short of an Almighty arm could break down these strong barriers,
and cause the introduction of the gospel."
The pagoda itself is thus described by Dr. Malcom.
"Two miles from Rangoon stands the celebrated pagoda called
Shooda-gon. It stands upon a small hill surmounted by many smaller
pagodas, and many noble trees. The hill has been graduated into
successive terraces, sustained by brick walls; and the summit, which is
completely leveled, contains about two acres.
"The two principal approaches from the city are lined on each side, for
a mile, with fine pagodas, some almost vieing for size with Shoodagon
itself. Passing these, on your way from the city, you come to a flight
of time-worn steps, covered by a curious arcade of little houses of
various forms and sizes, some in partial decay, others truly beautiful.
After crossing some terraces, covered in the same manner, you reach the
top and passing a great gate, enter at once this sad but imposing
theatre of Gaudama's glory. One's first impressions are, what _terrible_
grandeur; what _sickening_ magnificence; what absurd imagery; what
extravagant expenditure; what long successions of devotees to procure
this throng of buildings of such various dates; what a poor religion
which makes such labors its chief meritoriousness! Before you, stands
the huge Shoodagon, its top among the clouds, and its golden sides
blazing in the glories of an eastern sun. Around are pompous zayats,
noble pavements, Gothic mausoleums, uncouth colossal lions, curious
stone umbrellas, graceful cylindrical banners of gold-embroidered muslin
hanging from lofty pillars, enormous stone jars in rows to receive
offerings, tapers burning before the images, exquisite flowers displayed
on every side filling the air with fragrance, and a multitude of carved
figures of idols, griffins, guardians, &c.
"Always in the morning, men and women are seen in every direction
kneeling behind their gift, and with uplifted hands reciting their
devotions, often with a string of beads counting over each repetition;
aged persons sweep out every place, or pick out the grass from the
crevices; dogs and crows struggle around the altars, and devour the
recent offerings; the great bells utter their frequent tones; and the
mutter of praying voices makes a hum like the buzzing of an exchange.
"Every worshipper brings a present, often a bunch of flowers or a few
green twigs plucked on the way; but generally the nicest
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