tant fact for travellers
to bear in mind if they use mules at all. In daytime the train will
move smoothly, all the mules, of their own accord, following their
leader, and at night keeping close to her. In this way she prevents
them from scattering and becomes indispensable to the train.

But in spite of the vigilance of the sabana and the advantage of a
good yegua, it may happen, under favourable topographical and weather
conditions, that robbers succeed in driving animals away. While giving
the pack-train a much-needed rest of a day in a grassy spot, we woke
next morning to find five of our animals missing. As three of the lot
were the property of my men, they were most eagerly looked for. The
track led up a steep ridge, over very rough country, which the Mexicans
followed, however, until it suddenly ran up against a mountain wall;
and there the mules were found in something like a natural corral.

Not until then did our guide inform me that there lived at Calaveras
(skulls), only three miles from where we were stopping, a band of
seven robbers and their chief, Pedro Chaparro, who was at that time
well-known throughout this part of the Tarahumare country. I had
no further experience with him, but later heard much of this man,
who was one of a type now rapidly disappearing in Mexico. He did
not confine his exploits to the Mexicans, but victimised also the
Indians whenever he got an opportunity, and there are many stories
in circulation about him.

On one occasion he masqueraded as a padre, a black mackintosh serving
as his priestly garb. Thus attired he went to the unsophisticated
Tarahumares in the more remote valleys and made them send out
messengers to advise the people that he had come to baptise them,
and that they were all to gather at a certain place to receive his
blessings. For each baptism he charged one goat, and by the time
he thought it wise to retire he had quite a respectable herd to
drive home. When the Indians found out that they had been swindled,
they caught him and put him into jail, intending to kill him; but
unfortunately some of his Mexican confreres heard of his plight
and came to his rescue. However, a few years later, this notorious
highwayman, who had several murders to answer for, was caught by the
government authorities and shot.

On the road, as we travelled on, we met many Tarahumares carrying on
their backs trays (_huacales_) with apples, which they were taking
to market. The price