path, the roaring stream below--everything
reminded me of mountains in Norway, where I had run along many a
_saeter_ path through the twilight, alone, just as I was running now.

As luck would have it, I met an Indian boy coming up from the river,
Where he had been trout fishing, and I asked him to accompany me,
which he did. About half-way down we arrived at a little promontory
from which the fall could be seen very well. The rock seemed to be
here the same as on top, showing no sign of stratification. A few
yards from the point we had reached was a spring, and here we made
a fire and waited for the moon to rise. To make him more talkative,
I gave the boy a cigarette. He spoke only Spanish, and he told me that
he had neither father nor mother, and when his uncle died he was quite
alone in the world; but a Mexican family brought him up, and he seemed
to have been treated well. At present he was paying two dollars a
month for his board, earning the money by selling grass in Pinos Altos.

At nine o'clock we began to ascend through the moonlit landscape. I
had left my mule some hundred yards from the fall, and here I also
found the guide. At two o'clock in the morning I arrived at my camp.

The road continued through rather monotonous country, the altitude
varying from 6,300 to 7,700 feet. Grass began to be scarce, and
the animals suffered accordingly. It is the custom with Mexican
muleteers to select from among themselves a few, whose business
throughout the journey it is to guard the animals at night. These men,
immediately after having had their supper, drive the animals to a
place where suitable pasture is found, never very far from the camp,
and bring them back in the morning. They constitute what is called
la sabana. Comparatively few men suffice for this duty, even with a
large herd, as long as they have with them a leader of the mules,
a mare, preferably a white one. She may be taken along solely for
this purpose, as she is often too old for any other work. The mules
not infrequently show something like a fanatic attachment for their
yegua, and follow blindly where they hear the tinkling of the bell,
which is invariably attached to her neck. She leads the pack-train,
and where she stops the mules gather around her while waiting for the
men to come and relieve them of their burdens. Sometimes a horse may
serve as a leader, but a mare is surer of gaining the affection of
all the mules in the train. This is an impor