h projection, and terminating in a long, tapering
cone. This tower is made of glazed tiles, of the most brilliant sea-blue
color, and sparkles in the sun like a vast pillar of icy spar in some
Polar grotto. It is a most striking and fantastic object, surrounded by a
cluster of minarets and several cypress-trees, amid which it seems placed
as the central ornament and crown of the group.

The aspect of the city was so filthy and uninviting that we preferred
pitching our tent; but it was impossible to find a place without going
back upon the plain; so we turned into the bazaar, and asked the way to a
khan. There was a tolerable crowd in the street, although many of the
shops were shut. The first khan we visited was too filthy to enter; but
the second, though most unpromising in appearance, turned out to be better
than it looked. The _oda-bashi_ (master of the rooms) thoroughly swept and
sprinkled the narrow little chamber he gave us, laid clean mats upon the
floor, and, when our carpets and beds were placed within, its walls of mud
looked somewhat comfortable. Its single window, with an iron grating in
lieu of glass, looked upon an oblong court, on the second story,
surrounded by the rooms of Armenian merchants. The main court (the gate of
which is always closed at sunset) is two stories in height, with a rough
wooden balcony running around it, and a well of muddy water in the centre.

The oda-bashi lent us a Turkish table and supplied us with dinner from
his own kitchen; kibabs, stewed beans, and cucumber salad. Mr. H. and I,
forgetting the Ramazan, went out to hunt for an iced sherbet; but all the
coffee-shops were closed until sunset. The people stared at our Egyptian
costumes, and a fellow in official dress demanded my _teskere_. Soon after
we returned, Francois appeared with a splendid lump of ice in a basin and
some lemons. The ice, so the _khangee_ said, is taken from a lake among
the mountains, which in winter freezes to the thickness of a foot. Behind
the lake is a natural cavern, which the people fill with ice, and then
close up. At this season they take it out, day by day, and bring it down
to the city. It is very pure and thick, and justifies the Turkish proverb
in regard to Konia, which is celebrated for three excellent things:
"_dooz, booz, kuez_"--salt, ice, and girls.

Soon after sunset, a cannon announced the close of the fast. We waited an
hour or two longer, to allow the people time to eat, and then sall