nd canopied by the brilliant blue of a summer sky. There were
signs of the woodman's axe, and the charred embers of forest camp-fires. I
thought of the lovely _canadas_ in the pine forests behind Monterey, and
could really have imagined myself there. Towards evening we reached a
solitary guard-house, on the edge of the forest. The glen here opened a
little, and a stone fountain of delicious water furnished all that we
wanted for a camping-place. The house was inhabited by three soldiers;
sturdy, good-humored fellows, who immediately spread a mat in the shade
for us and made us some excellent coffee. A Turcoman encampment in the
neighborhood supplied us with milk and eggs.

The guardsmen were good Mussulmans, and took us for the same. One of them
asked me to let him know when the sun was down, and I prolonged his fast
until it was quite dark, when I gave him permission to eat. They all had
tolerable stallions for their service, and seemed to live pleasantly
enough, in their wild way. The fat, stumpy corporal, with his enormously
broad pantaloons and automaton legs, went down to the fountain with his
musket, and after taking a rest and sighting full five minutes, fired at a
dove without hitting it. He afterwards joined us in a social pipe, and we
sat on a carpet at the door of the guard-house, watching the splendid
moonrise through the pine boughs. When the pipes had burned out I went to
bed, and slept a long, sweet sleep until dawn.

We knew that the tombs of the Phrygian Kings could not be far off, and, on
making inquiries of the corporal, found that he knew the place. It was not
four hours distant, by a by-road and as it would be impossible to reach
it without a guide, he would give us one of his men, in consideration of a
fee of twenty piastres. The difficulty was evident, in a hilly, wooded
country like this, traversed by a labyrinth of valleys and ravines, and so
we accepted the soldier. As we were about leaving, an old Turcoman, whose
beard was dyed a bright red, came up, saying that he knew Mr. H. was a
physician, and could cure him of his deafness. The morning air was sweet
with the breath of cedar and pine, and we rode on through the woods and
over the open turfy glades, in high spirits. We were in the heart of a
mountainous country, clothed with evergreen forests, except some open
upland tracts, which showed a thick green turf, dotted all over with
park-like clumps, and single great trees. The pines were noble t