that availed nothing, as men here have
the right of way. At Genoa the ladies left us--midnight--and two
men took their places. These proved to be seafarers and could talk
English, so we learned quite a bit from them. At ten we were halted
and rushed in to breakfast. Sunday afternoon we reached the Eternal
City and came direct to the Pension Chapman, tired and hungry, but
later went to St. John's Cathedral to vespers.... After dinner we
were glad to lay ourselves away. We have a pleasant room, with
windows opening upon a broad court and lovely garden and fountain.
Monday we drove around the city for bird's-eye views from famous
points. Such wonders of ruins upon ruins!

Sunday Evening.--It is of no avail that I try and try to write-when
the sight-seeing is done for the day I am too tired.... Last
evening the Coliseum was illuminated--a weird, wonderful sight.
Today, Easter Sunday, I have seen crowds of people reverently
kissing St. Peter's big toe. Tomorrow we go to Naples for a week
and then return and finish Rome.

NAPLES, March 27.

Here we are, Rachel and I, at the Pension Brittanique, far up a
high hill, in a room overlooking the beautiful bay of Naples. It is
lovely, lovely! The little island of Capri, the city, the bold
shores and mountain setting--a perfect gem.... We have a little bit
of wood-fire with the smallest sticks--twigs we should call
them--two sperm candles to light our bedroom and no matches except
what we furnish. But 8 o'clock is here and we are all to meet for
breakfast....

Yesterday was a lovely _May_ day, and our party drove to the
village of Resina, which is built forty feet above the ruins of
Herculaneum. There, with a guide, we descended a hundred steps and
walked through the old theater, over the same stone stairs and
seats which two thousand years ago were occupied by the gayest of
mortals. Then we went to the ruins of Pompeii and ate our lunch
under large old trees growing upon the debris left by the great
eruption. We passed through the narrow streets, over stone
pavements worn by the tread of long-buried feet, through palaces,
public gardens and baths, temples, the merchants' exchange,
customhouse and magnificent theater....

I have just received John Bri